Sunday, June 9, 2013

Things I don't like so much: Riding in the heat and dust

The past two weeks I've had a bit of two things I really don't like much. Came to Kyrgyzstan for some mountains but it turns out you have to ride through deserts and plains before you get to ride high passes and herders' routes. The endless dust from Chinese trucks that race on the flats before slowing for the ups and downs coats the bike and bags and necessitates use of the buff as a mask. Toyota Prados running at 100km/hr turn peaceful rides along the edge of a wash boarded road into fits of coughing. Hours of such roads would be one thing, but days get a bit old. Its a relief to get to construction zones where they water the roads.
Here in the Ferghana Valley, the dust isn't so bad but the drivers and heat and terrible farm roads make for rough riding. And the rides to the nice herding paths and tracks are longer, through light smog and plenty of heat. Now, in June, it is early in the season, but temperatures are nearing 100 F with a bit of humidity. My skin sheds sunscreen and gives a few blisters. Road users are a combination of wedding parties in Lexi, small Daewoos, Merceds trucks, and Russian farm vehicles. None show much respect for cyclists, and give a regular love tap when met in traffic. The dogs for some reason haven't been too bad yet, and luckily the apparently loose donkeys and cows are tied at the horns.
If just the tree-lined boulevards of Bishkek would continue on to the Ferghana.

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